Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
